Now that summer is well and truly just a distant memory for us (sigh) we can indulge in dark lips, pale skin and smokey eyes with the reinvented 90’s Gothic look that has been featured in Emerald Street with “sophisticated” berry lipsticks and on the runway of Gucci, recreated on The Telegraph by Ruth Crilly in a great video tutorial.
I found an interview with the makeup artist who, at the time, was working on Twin Peaks and she gave some great tips on how to achieve the original look that was described by the LA Times as “a cross between stark, sultry ’40s film noir and lush, overripe ’50s Hollywood, with a Beat Generation twist”.
Carla Roseto Fabrizi was the head makeup artist on the show and recommends a series of products, most of which are unfortunately no longer available like Christian Dior’s Visora foundation and matte lipsticks including Burnt Sienna from Lancome
Carla used rice powder to set the makeup “because it gives a real nice matte finish that doesn’t drop into the cracks”. When I was a teenager I remember buying from The Body Shop as it was one of the must have makeup items and was renown for being kind to acne ridden skin. Now you can buy rice powder by Palladio from Beauty Naturals. I’m tempted to get some as I am still prone to the occasional breakout.
She used Max Factor’s Erace concealer to cover up imperfections and applied neutral shadow to the eyes: “I use an angle brush, sweep it along a dry, powder shadow and put it across the eye. I might elongate an almond-shaped eye for drama.”
She then finished off the look with thick black eye liner, angled and defined brows and soft waved hair full of volume. If you want to create the look for the evening but want more drama Carla recommended putting more emphasis on the eyes by using a slightly darker colour in the crease of the eye and highlighter in the middle of the eyelid to make it pop.
I for one love to be able to be more bold in the winter with my makeup, I know that my darker red lipsticks just felt too much in the summer alongside all the pastel colours. But with oxblood, purple and leather on the menu this winter dark Gothic looks go perfectly.